CALIFORNIA GIRLS

we are undeniable! HEY! I am back and loving the use of exclamation marks!!! I look forward to sharing all the details of my trip with you in person as well as having new and exciting adventures in CALIFORNIA!

Last day in Istanbul

Hey you guys! Senol, his brother, Tumay (his girlfriend) and I went out to dinner to for me to say good bye to the city. I got a little bit teary while we crossed the bridge from the European to the Asian side. As we crossed, U2 came on the radio and Bono was singing about one Love and one Blood which is a good sentiment to have as I leave. Not all of my times here were fun and many were lonely but they were all felt.
Everyday seemed to test my resilience. Some left me feeling vulnerable like when I depended on Senol during my first trip to Ist to lead me to board the correct bus and get off appropriatly. And then I felt strong when a cab driver and I laughed the entire way home because he had no idea where I was staying and I only had slightly more insight...and it was dark. Being on my own in Greece helped me to experience solitude but also to feel our human interdependence. I was humbled to learn about the existance of entire civilizations which included infrastructure, government and religion in 2000 BC and then refreshed by my private air condition. At the same time, everyday I missed you guys and wished that you were here in person so I learned to keep you all in my mind. I hope that you were able to feel it too. I am thankful for the conversations that I had with Abby when I felt stuck and during all of my other moods, I have depended on you a lot during this trip.  I am thankful for talking with my parents and hearing about all of their adventures and helping me to feel connected to my family. You guys help to bring me balance regardless of from which end of the spectrum I start. Thank you Liz and David for the comedy and heart felt comments, you kept me laughing or crying and thank you to my loving friends you girls rock!

I am getting on the plane tomorrow for Boston and then I'll be in LA on Tuesday. I'll see you guys soon a look forward to more journey...domestically for a while. Come to Santa Cruz

Galata Tower

Hey you all! Today I had my last celebratory solo tourist adventure in Istanbul. I went to the top of the Galata tower which has one of the best 360 views of the city. It was amazing and I'm glad that I did it today. Here are some pics
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MAKENNA!

a few pics

Senol let me borrow his spare camera today so here are two pictures of the view from my dinner restaurant. You will see the Blue Mosque and the sea

Belly Dansah

HEY! I found them, they do exist in Istanbul but only at tourist shows. Tonight I went to a cultural dance show with tradional folk dancing, belly dancing and an orchestra. It was very high energy, my favorite dance was a solo belly dancer in blacklight with florescent orange and yellow costume and markings. It was so magestic looking. I met some other women travellers about 65 and one maybe 80 who told me all about her recent fall on the cobblestones around Dolmabache palace. un ohh. She looked ok though. The other woman was from Portland and only in Ist for a few days and then off to cruise the greek Islands, she is going to love it. We talked about Judaism, Chrisianity and Islam. I like meeting people with very open perspectives. Yesterday I had a lazyish day, after I went to Taxim to buy Jack Keroac's 'On the Road' I came back to read and Senol's cousins were here so I really ended up cooking and watching a movie. Well I have one long weekend left here in the city and I am going to spend it avoiding the old diesel busses. Only the modern busses that announce the stops from now on!!! I love you all! Ciao
RTK

Drifter

That was what I was called yesterday and it didn't bother me one bit. I met three East Coasters at different periods in their trips through Istanbul at a cooking class put on by the Sarnic Hotel. It was a wonderful day despite costing me twice what I had planned on. But I guess sometimes that happens and it was totally worth it! The couple lived on the Cape and the woman lived in Rhode Island, they were all about my parents age which made me feel very happy. The chef from Sarnic was wonderful and funny and he told us that we should cook according to color not to measurement which is a neat perspective for life. I would love to reproduce the recipes but they involve some heavy frying...is anyone volunteering a kitchen?
So we made some spicy red lentil soup, auberginesw with onion and tomoato, cheese pastries, vine leaves stuffed with meat, and stuffed figs with walnut. They were all wonderful dishes and I am so glad to have had the experience. Today I am heading over to the Galata tower to see the view and to pick up a new book. I hear they have an evening show there and I would love to take Senol to see it before I leave. I need to find a nice host gift but am not sure what to pick.
see you soon and I love you all
love
rtk

Lazy Monday

No the book was not in Turkish, it was called "the Help" about jim crow days in Missisppi and white women with the black maids that work for them. It was a very good book and I read it in two and a half days, if you have time to sit down and indulge in a 450p. book sometime soon I highly recommmend it.
Anyhow today I read the book and then took a walk in the neighborhood to try to find the beach. I found the beach but couldn't get there because it was on the other side of the train tracks. I am sure that I could have found a way over but I just wanted to get home. It was that kind of day. I am expecting my period really soon which makes me have wonderfully colorful mood swings and I miss my CA culture. Soon enough. I am leaving for Boston in seven days (really six and a half but who is counting)

Cruise on the Bosphorus

Yesterday Senol and I took a cruise on the Bosphorus which was great. We saw where all of the rich people live which is an interesting contrast to the rest of Istanbul. It looked like it was the hollywood hills with an old castle thrown in for good measure. Senol and I drove to Ortakoy and had some fantastic dessert then took the boat in the evening as the sun was about to set, after the cruise we went up to Taxim to meet Emrey and his wife Sarah for dinner and more dessert. There are entire stores dedicated to turkish delights :). It makes me happy. Hmm, on Friday I was in a bookstore and a 23 year old boy looked over to me and said, "that book is hard?" meaning a long book and difficult to read and I laughed...then of course he asked me why I was reading a book in Istanbul and would I like to have tea. Reading for entertainment by a tourist is just not done I guess? Anyway I had to insist that I like to be alone which is sorta true but sorta not...I miss you all. I'll be back in eight days! Love
RTK

Walk like American

Whatever that means I take it as a compliment! My newest idea is to write down all of the fun things that people say to me as I make my way around Istanbul. It will be enjoyable for all envolved...except for the people whos names I will change. No really this evening around dinner time someone said that I walk like and American which I thought was peculiar because as I looked around I thought I walked like the Germans. However I was wondering how about 80% of people are correct about my native language. After that I went to the Hodjapasha for a Dervish Show. It is really titled the 'Mevlevi Sema Ceremony' and evolved from the Sufi order following Rumi's teachings. It was as though I was sitting in on an advanced yogic meditation class. There were five dervishes and a four piece orchestra playing a very hypnotic beat bringing us a little bit closer to God. The dervishes whirl with their right hands turned up toward God and the left turned down toward earth and they are vehicles for God's love to man. It was very interesting. you should check it out
love
rtk

A smile like turkish delight

Yep, thats me. Says my waiter. I could get used to this, now all I need is someone to peel my damn grapes. UhhOhh bad news, my camera won't turn on. I have replaced the batteries twice and all I get is a red light saying...stop...you were awful to me before and I will not longer work for you. So sorry guys, if I can convince my personal photographer to accompany me on all trips then you will have something to look at but if not you will have to rely on my highly descriptive writing.
Today I made it out of the house!!! I went down to the Grand Bazaar where I got some spanking good deals and then to the Camberlitas Hamam which is by far the best one that I have been to. The room was not as hot as the others that I have visited so I didn't feel like crap after. My scrubber was a pleasant older lady and the room was for women only. There was even a jaccuzi! This Hamam is where they filmed a part of Indiana Jones so you know it is quality. The locals leave it for the tourists and really I enjoyed the extra bit of coddleing provided. Anyhow the last two pictures that my camera took are here. One is of the street life right after getting off the ferry and into old town and the other is from the overpass by senol's house on the way to the bus stop. the bus stop is along the highway on the right.

Happy Birthday EAC

Liz Happy Birthday! I had a party for you. Well I am going to make chocolate pudding anyway. It is the end of your birthday for me and I did a lot of lounging today. Senol says that it is all that I do and yesterday his brother called me 'simple'. I think our relationships are working very well and we are starting to understand eachother. Today I took a long nap and then went to the grocery store, I was amazed at the amount of food that I could buy for 15 turkish lyra as it seems that one sandwich costs about 15 tl on the tourist circuit. There was also a farmers market of sorts (including the cheap clothes vendor) on the way back so I also got some fresh peaches, eggplant and zucchini which I probably won't cook until they are about to go bad but at least there is the option. Tomorrow I have high hopes of making it to the Grand Bazaar and then maybe the Camberlitas Hamam but that was my goal for today also. We will see. Have a wonderful Wednesday! I'll be back in the States in 12 days.
love
rtk

Contrast

The old and the new. Today I went with Tumay, Senol's girlfriend, to the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art. It was nice to leave the busy streets of the city and enter the quiet salons of MOMA. There were two travelling exhibits on display both concerning fashion. the first was a designer/artists rendering of different aspects of Istanbul. He called it the she-city and wrote poetic discriptions of various and at times contrasting parts of city life. I read about Taksim, the doves, the lillies, turkish delight, Galata bridge, Dolmabache palace, the Bosphorus, and the night of Istanbul. I am proud to say that I have experienced all of these things...like I could have worn all of the dresses on display which brings up another interesting point of the female form used as a hanger for art. HMM. The other exhibit had a great theme of metamorphosis. It addressed seasons as well as travel and displacement. struck a chord with me as I have been on the road for quite some time and feel like I have really come back into myself. I appreciate the routines of bed early, light breakfast, shower, getting in touch with you all and checking out news etc. I have discovered some of my triggers like heat, crowded spaces and not having adequate down time. These these things are pretty universal huh. Back out of my head and to the day.
Tumay and I did some shopping around Kadikoy and then I came back by bus to Senol's where I am putting my feet up and catching up about the day. Here are some pictures of the museum n me.

Heeeey

Hi-I am back in Istanbul and pretty excited about it. I am going to do the next few days like a tourist. Maybe I'll get a visor and fanny pack. It is quite a waste to buy these things as I could have taken moms but I had not realized the strength of the genes. I'll let you know what happens tomorrow after day one of money spending in Istanbul. Hey did you know that Istanbul is the 2010 European capitol of culture (sounds like a marketing ploy)

the lake

Senol, his uncle and I went to a mountain lake today to get away from the village. We really have no plans during the day which can get a bit boring and so when the opportunity arose we jumped on it. The mountains reminded me of alaska with a large stream running through. After our drive we went to a restaurant (a balcony where they serve tea and light snacks) and his uncle smoked the hookah while I ate bread, honey and cheese. Everything is superfresh to reiterate. Last night the young (under 40) crowd went up to the families house on the top of the mountain. We BBQ'd and chatted away from the adults. The girl cousins taught me a few moves for belly dance which was fun. Well have a great weekend! I am going to read my book and play solitaire I think...unless someone offers to drive somewhere. Here are some pictures from the U2 concert and the village
ciao
RTK

The Mountain

Hello-
Today Senol and I are ın Trabzon lookıng for thıngs to do but I dont expect that we wıll fınd them whıch ıs fıne wıth me. The mountaın vıllage ıs quıet and wonderful. I am sharıng a room wıth hıs grandmother who ıs lovely and lıkes to jostle me. Really both of the grandmothers lıke to do that. Thıs mornıng I woke up and then lıstenend to her snore for a whıle before goıng to hıs cousıns house to help mılk theır cow although maybe ı wasnt helpıng...then hıs cousın and ı went around the backyard for a whıle and looked at the tea plants. When we got back to the house we had breakfast of tomato fresh cucumber cheese bread chocolate spread and lots of tea [ı cant fınd the comma] sat around and talked for a whıle and then senol and ı left for the town. One of hıs cousıns ıs studyıng ın London rıght now and her sıster wants to come to the US. People are very warm ın hıs vıllage and I have been eatıng everywhere I go. A small mınorıty of people are not observıng Ramadan and we eat durıng the day otherwıs today ıs the last day and tomorrow we wıll have many sweets. I am lookıng forward to that. I wıll talk wıth you all soon and love you all:) I wıll have some pıctures soon and one of the boys has remote ıntenet access sometımes but I havent trıed ıt yet. Cıao
love
RTK

extravagence

Hello! Today I slept in...this is big for me. I am on vacation but not sleeping in. It is very wierd. In Trabazon I bet I will rise with the sun and then go to bed at sundown which would be AMAZING. After a good nights rest Senol and I went to a park overlooking Istanbul and then to catch a boat for a bosphorus tour...but it was raining so decided against it. Instead I went to see dolmabache palace and he visited his uncle. Dolmabach Palace has 285 rooms, I didn't see all of them but it is extravagent. Before the palace was built the Turks borrowed money from European countries and then bought a few decorations in the style of French Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassic. The palace is packed with crystal, gold leaf and handwoven carpets. Interesting to see that much money stuck in a building. Here is a picture of the side door and one of the view from the palace gates.

Technology these days, eh

Well it is Sunday morning and I am making some sweet rice for breakfast. Yesterday Senol and I went to a movie which I thought was funny but was definatly the only one laughing. It was called 'going the distance' and with Drew Berrymore who would have thunk that she would be popular in the young binge drinking, pot smoking crowd? Not that I fit in there but I am just making a reference that you will all understand. Well David will get it anyway. HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAVID! Time flies huh.
So went to the movie after faxing a document to my recruiter in Boston. I have a job!!! YAY. I start in Santa Cruz on October 11. I can't believe that I got all of this done while I am across the globe...but hey it is 2010. So I am looking forward to being in that little town and exploring the beaches and mountains. Hopefully I'll start riding my bike more, get into yoga consistently and do some dancing. Speaking of dancing...I think they really don't belly dance here. Well at least not in Istanbul...they more bump and grind. (not that I have been out). I am going to have to pay to see a show when I get back into town.
Senol and I are going to Trabzon on Tuesday for one week to hang out with his family and tour around the area. I have heard that it is very foresty and...ugh...there is not much internet access. (I have my lets go book with internet cafe's listed though). We are going to hike for four hours everyday...I feel like I am going with you dad, in the way that we already have plans to over exert ourselves. Have a great Sunday and I will see you guys in less than a month:)
love you all
RTK

Most beautiful day

Hello everyone! I have arrived back in Istanbul and am at Senol's house just chillin and getting ready to go to sleep. It is cool and windy here which I am loving (he isn't) Today was the most beautiful day in Santorini yet and I left at 2p. Last night it was windy which cleared all of the dust out of the air. I took myself to a nice lunch at a restaurant recommended by my Greek friends. It was awesome. I ate fava beans mashed up (like dahl) and fried Kalamari. It is past midnight here so I am going to bed but wanted to say that I made it safely
love rtk

Last full day in Greece

I am a little sad. The islands are absolutly beautiful and today I was caught up in the romance of Santorini. I started out the day at a museum in town of archaeology, it made me feel part of a long human history and I also realized that my drama is quite insignificant in the scheme of things. Then I walked around the town ending up at the post office which is slightly more beurocratic than the US post but a good place to eavesdrop on conversations. The people in front of me were mailing clothes back to the UK and their wedding coordinator came in right behind me. She and her husband live on the island and make a living planning posh weddings for couples looking for the perfect romantic destination wedding. Santorini is the place and I found out why this evening. I met my greek friend Maria around six at the cable car and we rode it down to the old port where we had some greek coffe and discussed the differences/similarities between our cultures. We headed back up by cable car just after the sun went down and saw the beautiful colors of Santorini. Then we met her parents for a snack at a cafe on the Caldera and discussed politics over apple pie. They do a good apple pie in Greece...we must have stolen it from them. After the pie, Maria had to buy tickets for their return trip home and I went to the bakery for some dinner which I still haven't eaten. I figure I will eat when I am hungry as I have already spoiled my dinner with pie:) YUM! Have a wonderful Wednesday. I post again when I am back in Istanbul tomorrow night. good night from here
love
rtk