Cruisin

Hey! I just got back from a really long day of touring Santorini. We took a sail boat using the motor from the new port to the old port to pick up some more cruisers and then went to the Volcano which was pretty dusty and hot. Go figure. After that we took a quick dip at a warm spring and headed to the island of Thirasa for some lunch. I ate with a greek family that I met on board, they are wonderful! Then we went to Oia for the last four hours of the trip. That part actually seemed unorganized because our guide said go watch the sunset and then get the bus at 8:30 so after four hours in Oia I am happy to get back to putting my feel up with the air conditioner on. Oia is a beautiful town but it is all pretty rough on the feet and after 6 hours of adventure it can be almost too much. I am meeting up with my greek friends tomorrow to ride the cable car down to the old port and maybe coming back up by donkey. Today I went up to to Oia by donkey but I was kinda nervous about this one. They were walking by themselves and mine kept getting distracted and then swerving to keep the other donkeys behind. Then he would try to cut in on the donkey in front...I was waiting for the swift kick but it didn't happen. When we were supposed to dismount I got pretty much yanked off by our donkey 'guide' after I tried to get off to the left instead of the right. ugh I didn't know there was etiquite. Anyway I got a laugh from him.
Oh and the greek family directed me toward the good food...so much better:)
talk to you soon
love
rtk

Santorini!

Yes it really is that amazing. I arrived this afternoon and the husband of the owner came to get me from the port in their Hotel Leta van. The new port is farther than I had expected and I am glad that transportation was included. I arrived at my room which is simple and clean...rested for a few hours and then headed out to the city around 5p. We are situated about on the end of town but the cliffs are only three or four streets in, so maybe a ten minute walk. In Isla Vista speak it would be like living near SOS market. I walked up and down cobble stoned streets and took a few pictures, went to the convention center to check out an exhibit of minoan artwork, bought my ticket for a tour tomorrow!!! yay going to see the Volcano up close, the island of Thirasa and then for sunset to Oia. I met a New Yorker who said that that beach is wonderful and then started complaining about not having spent enought time there...I love New York! I even checked out the local posh hotel with a lounge to see if I could picture myself there...maybe but there are some other really great cafe's on the cliffs that I might do first. There are a lot of people around taking pictures...it is high tourist season and I am embracing it all...english is spoken about everywhere so haven't gotten lost:) This is a great place to end my Greek Island adventure and now I am going to have some dinner and maybe get a book
Love ya
RTK

Mousucka

Today I almost vomited at lunch. I had to hold my napkin over my mouth to calm the impending doom. Thanksfully I held it all together but really I thought about what I was eating and my stomach got sour. Now I have had mousaka at another Greek restaurant and I really enjoyed it. There it was an indivigual lasagna type dish served in it's own ceramic dish and I had it with bread. I could taste the eggplant and topping well but the meat didn't stand out. When I was at lunch today I was eating from a 5x5 inch square of mousaka which was tasting mighty greasy, just into my next bite the topping fell off and I was staring at super greesy ground lamb and I didn't need anymore. When I was in Rhodes my lovely swedish friend was telling me about her trip to Ghana and told me to just not trust the meat cus it might be five days old. Just the idea made me sick to my stomach. Meat it in everything here which can be overwhelming, I love to order fried eggplant by itself. maybe I'll go get some right now...after my ice cream. Ciao!

Shrek 4

Tonight I went to see Shrek 4 at an outdoor theater called the Cine Astra it had Greek subtitles and there were only about eight native English speakers there. The other people were greek children which was funny. I'm glad that Shrek is still not an adult movie. I found it cute with a theme of rescuing eachother within a relationship. Very sweet so much that I threw up in the back of my mouth. But lets move on.
Today was a warm day and I spent most of it outside. I walked along the Saint George beach with the other tourists. Saw some beautiful purple coral. Bought a hilarious book called 'A Year in the Merde'. It is "an urban retort to A Year in Provence, this is a book for everyone who loves-or loves to hate- the French.
Then I went to a small bistro on the other side of the port and read for a few hours only disturbed by the chef who came to sit with me and chat and by the beauty of the waves crashing on the reef in front of me. The water is a beautiful glassy blue right now but super salty.
I don't know what I have in store for tomorrow except that there is a cook out at one of the local beach clubs...yum
Have a great Saturday!

It has passed

Well maybe just for today, but maybe not. Thank you for the kind words. Good ideas dad, I am trying not to spend much money but some things you have to do...mom is a pro at that;) Yesterday I went for a horseback ride on the beach and my horse spooked a few times. She was trying to have it her way the entire ride and so I decided that I didn't trust her enough to run with her on the beach. We walked and then after our break at the beach cafe I traded horses with a young Italian girl. She had a few of the same problems which I was glad to see but we were also headed back to the stable. So I decided that the horse taught me to not push it but play it safe. I think that if I would have tried to really command the horse she might have thrown me off and I would have bigger problems. So I gave in to trading horses knowing that the two of us just didn't fit together and my next horse felt much better. He responded to my commands much more smoothly. For the next few days I will give in to my tourist sensibilities and go find the other thrill seekers.
The weekends here seem to be very chill. Last night I was directed to a wonderful restaurant where took to go a gyro and fried eggplant and sat along the harbor wall. The waves crashed behind me, before me was a ferry dropping off its passengers. To my right was the remains of Apollo's temple and to my left the city. It was just me and my food but a very lovely way to end a few tumultuous days.
Have a great weekend

an Island

I know it is a cliche and I guess I am a rock too. This is hard to put out there without covering my frustration with humor but...well I have been on the road for a little more than a month and it is not easy. Yesterday I really felt lonely, like hit by a wall of it. I sat with myself most of the day and was patient with the feeling but it still hasn't totally left me. It is a feeling that although there are people around me, I don't know how to be with them and really want to be with you guys. I am missing a big part of the communication and don't understand body language here, I am putting the emphasis on the wrong syllable all the time. Yesterday I sat in a bar for a while and instead of the waiter asking me if I would like to order something he told me that if I want to sit here I must order something. Sort of the wrong part of the transaction to focus on at that moment. To pass time I am playing solitaire but can't finish a game without creating more than seven piles. I want to isolate myself and gather my thoughts but everything seems like a potential stressful interaction.
Well I want to document all of my trip on this blog so here is one of my low points. Greece is absolutly beautiful and being alone has its challenges in such a lovely place.

a random town

Hello- Today was the second day that my plans did not work out and I am taking this as a sign, I didn't realize that NFP (no fixed plans) meant like not even the night before but it does. I wanted to rent a scooter to go up into the hills so when I went to talk with the man who rents scooters he said that it not good. He said that it will be good after September 15 but now there are too many people and it is not a good time to practice. A vespa would be a good thing to have at home so that when I am abroad I won't have any problem renting a scooter and proving that I am a good driver. Ok so can't get a vespa, tried for a quad but didn't have my liscense on me so I gave up. I went to the bus station and bought a ticket to the Zas Mountain (Zeus) got on some bus that would pass it (apparantly these busses are all cross scheduled meaning there is only one bus leaving for a specific area and instead of writing the route it is written each major village stop as the end of a line). So I passed the mountain...and thought this looks too hot to walk up right now, kept going and when the majority of the people stood up so did I. I asked a lady "end of the line" and she repeated "yes, end of the line" which it wasn't but I got off anyway. I ended up in a very nice town, actually one mentioned in my lets go guide. It is called Apiranthos and it has four museums. The currator of the museum of fine arts told me that it is the third most artsy place in greece behind athens and an island near mykonos. Interesting little place and here are some pics. I made it back on the bus and into town. Irene (who owns the hotel) sent her son up with some chocolate covered lemon cake and I have been indulging ever since. What a life.
ps. I met some frenchies :)

A very sweet day

Hello-Today was a lovely and relaxing one. I slept a lot last night, woke up and missed my bus for a tour of the island (the travel agency actually hadn't scheduled my stop) so came back and took a nap. After my nap still feeling a bit crampy I wandered around the old town and the Kastro (castle) of Naxos. This place was built by the Venetians and is still inhabilited today. There are concerts during tourist season. I went back toniht to see two guitarists play together and it was so romantic. There was a cool ocean breeze, wine, great lighting, and the stage was against the wall of the Kastro. The wall is made of orignial materials of original greek settlers and contains granite from an altar (I think to Athena). At any rate it is a heavy wall. I am back home and ready to go to bed after such a relaxing evening. Naxos is wonderful and the gentleman who served the wine said to taste them all...like we are at a party with friends. So I did and prefer the white wine to the citrine (like vodka) Good night!

Plaka by bike?

Yes please!!! Today I am resting in my bed and I feel accomplished. The only exercise I have been doing lately is walking up and down cobblestone streets which really works out the ankles but I don't get to see many places in a go. Today I decided to rent a bike and ride it out to the beach, fabulous idea. I wanted to go to this 'nude' beach because it is fabled to be one of the best and more isolated than the port area. Not nude! Good thing I had my bathing suit in my backpack and I changed using Senol's sheet that I stole. It was a nice beach to lay on with lounge chairs and beautiful italian men competitively playing smash ball on the shore. And although it was not nude it was european and so topless if preferred. I prefer and it was my first time. After the beach I rode back to Naxos town made some pasta and am now sitting in my bed with my eyes half closed and it is only 7:30. Well staying across from the church gives me an unsolicited alarm clock...hey maybe I should explore the deeper meaning of that. Or maybe not. I am on vacation and have strict orders to keep out of my head.
Here are some pics from today. Enjoy!

greek drama and made it to my next island

Hey everyone! Last night I went to see a greek drama in the old town castle ruins of Kos. It was a very cool ambiance and tolerable weather because the castle has a nice breeze. who would think they would build on such prime real estate? I left about a half hour into it because I had no idea what was happening and frankly it was a little too dramatic. Those Greeks and their facial expressions.
Today after an eight hour boat trip I made it to Naxos, was picked up by the son of the proprietress and now am in my room. I'm still swaying a little bit but I think that by the end of the night I'll be adjusted. It is much more windy here and dry. I can get used to this. The buildings are what I pictured the Greek Islands to be whitewashed with blue shutters. My room is adorable and I have attached some pics. there is a church right next door so you know I'll mind my P's and Q's. Happy Sunday!

socrates and lawers in training

*disclaimer-the people i sang praises about yesterday were the older women and the mamma's boys
Some insight. I will take this opportunity to make an observation about life in Greece. The men can be pains in the a$$. My experience with about 3 different middle aged men is that they want to have things left exactly as they were found and they want to be right. First the proprietor at my hotel in Rhodes interrogated my Swedish friend about why she kept the bathroom door closed, then when I went to grab a quick bite to eat today after placing my order with the bar tender (a woman) I sat down at the request of the waiter and he proceeded to ask me what I wanted. I replied that I wanted a sandwich and with a grand gesture he let me know that they don’t have them so I said then toast and I already placed my order for one with turkey, cheese and tomato (sounds like a sandwich). So he said I’ll see what I can find and gave me ‘toast’ which looked a lot like a sandwich. Then this afternoon I went across the street to the beach and sat on a lounge chair with umbrella, I was re arranging the umbrella when a smokey 50 year old man came up to me and said ‘what you want’ so I told him and he said to move the chair instead then ‘where you from’…when I was leaving the lounge chair he walked by me and said ‘did you close the umbrella or left for me to do?’ I said oh I am sorry and he said ‘no sorry’. These people are like disgruntled nurses. I guess it is just that time of the year for some middle aged Greek men.
And now what I have been doing with my time. This morning I took a blue tourist train up to the Asclepion which is where Socrates first practiced and taught medicine in Greece. His garden was also there which would have been very exciting to see but there are no specific herbs anymore. The lay out is amazing with rooms for ailing people, incubating people, different levels of baths which was associated with purification and a grand altar. Religion and Medicine were inseparable and many sacrifices were made for the cause. It was a really magical feeling for me to be there. The land feels very healing and nourishing and I am amazed to think that people were treated at hospitals in the 3rd century BC. The compound was all very well organized.
I got to the blue train station at 9am but the train didn’t run until ten so I went across the street to the old city which is a bunch of ruins and sat for an hour watching different people. I saw two couples one with two children and the other with 1. One Italian man and woman a man who appeared to be homeless and suffering from some psychiatric disease and another Greek man who was the was the keeper of the animals. There are tons of stray cats on these islands and in turkey and they keep the mood light…except that they look to be starving. The Italian lady brought a box of food and the cats all ran to her, it reminded me of St. Peter’s square in Venice where people feed the pigeons and of course I wonder to myself…do animals that are fed by humans loose their ability to gather food for themselves so is it ultimately a dis service to feed them? Apparently it is not an international concern but one where cats are not starving on the street. Hmm.
What do you guys think?
I am almost finished with my book Tis and then I got another one called the geography of happiness which is already making me laugh. Gotta go stick my nose in one of them. Have a great weekend!

so friendly

Made it to Kos. These people are wonderful. I was picked up at the ferry by the proprietress's son Kostas who actually found me. He drove me in the family van to pick up his mother on the way and then to the hotel. I am three blocks in from the beach on the top floor of a four story building. sort of an add on with all of the ammenities. It is great so far!
tomorrow I may go to find some ruins and then have a quiet evening before I leave for Naxos on the ferry. This place (kos) is 40 minutes by ferry from Turkey and I can see their shore from my room. So cool, you all have to come with me. Maybe we will have a big greek vacation. Yes?

last day in rhodes

Today I took my a$$ up and down a seaside mountain. Literally, and the donkey in front had explosive diarrhea. Lindos is the same place that my Swedish friend took a nasty spill and sprained (or trimalleolar fractured) her right ankle, I was cautious. I was able to imagine the described heat induced careless ness that overtook me when I almost fell off the bus stop bench. It was hot today. A German family was gathered around their daughter with dad elevating feet and mom supporting head. Apparently she has gashed her toe (in flip flops????) and was passing out probably from the pain and the heat. After a dousing with water she looked all right and I kept on my way to the temple for Athena. Ok so after Lindos I took the bus back to Rhodos town and almost missed the last stop as I woke up totally disoriented. Thinking I was still on my turkey bus tour I almost reboarded the bus and headed back to Lindos. Sometimes a day of busses isn’t that fun.
I made it back to my hotel and took a nap after dropping off my laundry (thank the lord) then went out to dinner at a restaurant recommended by the Swede before her departure. All in all a very good day and I took some time to walk along the marina watching people, focusing on the moment and the hypnotizing rhythm of the light house. I was trying to predict it’s cadence but was unsuccessful except for putting myself in a yogic trance (from breathing). Today was a good day, as was yesterday when I went to the old town. I walked through the medieval moat surrounding the town and castle to find a matrix of small cobble stoned streets seemingly leading to one square of touristy restaurants. I smiled at a couple of old women sitting in their doorways, laughed to myself when I heard two young girls dancing to Beyonce in their old town apartment and then panicked when I was the only tourist on a five foot wide street trying to find my way to the exit. In my haste I decided to buy a water and ask the shop keeper for an exit which was interpreted as taxi but got me where I wanted to be. By the time I got out I had walked almost the entire perimeter of the old town. It was a cool experience and here are some pictures from both days. I wish you all were here! The Greek Islands are a fantastic place to vacation. Oh and I bought my flight from Santorini to Istanbul J those are some good plans.
Hey dad, enjoy the food in Boston…Greek food is damn good too. I’ve had some eggplant to die for!

Virgin Mary festival

First I need to correct myself, while there are some devout catholics on the island, most people are devout greek orthodox and the church fair that I went to last night was for them. It felt like a movie set...in Louisiana because of the humidity but there was tons to see. lots of mylar balloons for sale, gyros, and these doughnut hold type things but less light and more cakey smothered in chocolate. Besides the food there were placemats for sale, napkins, shower curtains, jewelry, remote controls, toy plastic bikes that ride with batteries oh and a ferris wheel, goufer game etc. all things to make you want to puke after eating too many sweets and dripping sweat from all orifices. Thats great huh.
So we arrived by packed bus and I saved my friend from the impending fall when we started to go again. That obsessive guarding pays off when least expected (stuck my knee out for her to sit on, abby I know you think I am amazing). We had no idea where the stop was other than...you will know. after walking around and smiling at the vendors who were clearly not catering to the tourists (good sign) we got our kebab sandwiches (not gyros) and sat down. Let me tell you...the food was so good. the meat seasoned so perfectly that I forgot I was eating carcas and the taziki was thick good ness. here they put some fried potatoes on top which was intersting and filling. At first sight I thought I might need two but after I was full from only one. So we wandered around and saw some chairs set up with old people sitting in them. since I think the old people always have a idea of where the good things are we sat down too and waited for the show. After the priest's blessing the entertainment came out. It was very traditional and there were two groups the young adults and the second was junior high ish student. funny and fumbly. Started slow and finished fast. I enjoyed the steps.
after the show we checked out a photo exhibit of the church's metamorphosis and it was interesting to see pics from the 60s or 70s when military men guarded all church fuctions. we walked around the bazaar area and headed back. It was 10:30 and my bed time!
so It is lovely here I have attached a picture of the hotel and the dancers. I am staying out of the heat and will go to the old town tonight. I bought my ticket to Kos for Friday evening and then from there to Naxos. YAY. this is a good adventure.

a lovely town

Hello everyone! I am on my first full day in Rhodes. So far very good. I have settled into a hotel with air conditioning, a continental breakfast and few other amenities. The people that are staying here right now are also wonderful and I spent the day with a woman from Sweden. She showed me a café near the marina that is very popular among the Greeks. They are all out and chatting with one another…the café owner effortfully avoided us today which was interesting. My friend said that he does that every time she goes there. She functions at just my pace…a few days ago she slipped on some stairs in Lindos and sprained her ankle (may have fractured her tibia) and twisted her knee. I don’t know how she remains cheerful but she does. I watched the Greek men interact with each other and they are very affectionate, holding hands at times and walking each other to their motor bikes, of course I don’t know what they are really saying. It could be nasty but I don’t think so.
So let me describe the place to you in a play by play: I got off of my ferry yesterday early afternoon and was struck/excited by the wind on that side of the island as well as the huge walls around the old town. They are very majestic and surprisingly low. Not imposing but pleasant, it really just felt like some security or unifying building to keep the people of Rhodes together. I walked on the edge of the old town and into the new town where there are two starbucks on the main road. The map is printed with funds from Sephora and some other chain store I would compare the feeling to walking on the streets in Florence. Actually on the street that borders the ocean there are cafes with outdoor seating and cement arches leading into the shop area, I like it very much. This feels like the cradle of western civilization and I am only starting. I think that the engineering and architecture may have something to do with the natural resources available. Maybe because there was an abundance of volcanic rock the walls are made of stone. Hmm, I think I might have learned something about all of this in junior high modern civ. Ok now I might become a geology buff, does anyone have any light to shed on these things? The pictures that I have included are of port when I first arrived, the wall of the old town contrasting the new town, the café that I went to today and a statue in a parking lot…really? In a parking lot.
This evening I may go with my Swedish friend (who is on crutches) to Kremasti for a celebration of the Virgin Mary. I have heard that the locals are very devoted Catholics. I’ll let you know how it goes
Love you all,
RTK

to the greek islands

Hello All! Well I am on the road and super excited about it. Last night I got like no sleep and was up chatting with Abby late freaking out but now that I am on the ferry to Greece it’s all good. My hotel in Fethiye was alright but nothing to write home about (wait I totally am) and I asked the one receptionist who spoke English to arrange a ride to the ferry at 7:30 in the morning. The common response is OK which doesn’t really indicate any plan being made so at 7:00 when I was dressed I went to the reception and of course the lady wasn’t there. The Man behind the counter and I mimed back and forth and I figured out that he wanted me to leave at 7:40...which I was alright with but not thrilled because I wanted to stop at the ATM on the way. After I ate breakfast and was there at 7:35 there was some discussion about who would drive me to the station and then the universal 5 minutes which really ended up to be 15. So I didn’t pull out my hair but was about to call a taxi when my favorite guy from the hotel strolled up and we left. He is a fast driver and I got here at 8:05, two days ago it took me a half hour to get here by bus but without the stops and traffic it is anyone’s go kart race. So now I am here and very happy about it. I have already met a nice English family who is on the last week of their vacation. I don’t know what hotel they are staying at because I didn’t want to pry…but I have learned something. While I do enjoy Turkish people, international hotels are a better way to go for me. I like it when everyone has the same curiosities and I am not alone in acting a fool (or being watched). I hope you had a great weekend and thank you Abby for staying up with me late. Mom and Dad I enjoyed chatting with you about price haggling and I saved some money on my transfer to the boat. Senol thanks for insisting that I have a phone, it helped when I called the taxi for a price quote. I love you all.
On a note of hilarity, my driver who was a very handsome older Turk mimed throwing his cell phone at the front desk man…I’m glad some things are universal.

my moment

Hello all,
I am just finishing up my first day on my solo trip in the hotel in Fethiye. I will leave for the island of Rhodes on Monday and am really looking forward to it. I can't wait for the pristine beaches and fellow international backpacker crowd. Today was a lazy day for me. well really I will start with last night. As I said i went out with the group for tea and then dancing. The tea portion was amazing. we sat around circular gazebo style benches (like at the clubhouse but with trees overhead) on cushions that turks love. the stars were out and we were in the old town of karakoy (totally look it up) a few buildings were lit from the ground so that we saw silouettes of the stones. the lights were all those cloth light covers depicted in turkish nightish movies. my moment was when I went to the back of the restaurant (between the ruins and the tables in a field) and saw a very thin and scared looking horse teathered to a tree. there must have been some turf battle between the street dogs and the horse because they were both making angry noises but the horse seemed so tired that she wasn't even stomping. so I talked with her for a little while and then saw that her water bucket was empty she was distracted by something so i shimmied just beyond her rope's boundary (sideways because it is about body language) and took her bucket to get some water. after the first bucket she needed another so one of the boys that was with me distracted her and i put the second down. and that was my moment. communication is very interesting and at times fulfilling.
Ok so after the horse thing we went to the tourist bar area and hung out for what seemed like too long. I had a strawberry daquari which was really watered down and I didn't finish...maybe that is why my stomach felt funny...because of the ice not being purified water...hmm. But I did get some turkish tums which my friend helped me buy. I am going to miss a lot of people from this week.
Alright, today I woke up early and then back to bed. In the afternoon I took the dolmus by myself to the downtown of fethiye...which is not really the best. there are a lot of cell phone stores, banks and clothing stores. but riding the dolmus and finding my way around was great. Now I know that I can do it. My first day truly solo was a success. anyway here is a picture of three friends from the trip playing backgammon. have a great weekend!

on a boat

Hello all, I am feeling like I am still on a boat. Today we went to the 12 islands which is a cluster of islands (go figure) off the coast of Fethiye. It was nice and I met some other international travellers. Notably the Germans who I enjoy watching. I played cards with both of my adopted families and drank too much tea...am actually a little jittery as I write this. this evening our tour group is going out and as it is my last night with them I will go. The turks are a fun group of people...a little hesitant at first but after a few days of observation they are shoving food down my throat and watching me around every turn with a 'rebecca come' if I am missled (sometimes I do it on purpose cus I am a rebel like that) today I sat on the shady side of the boat but apparantly we should have sat on the sunny side so I was beckoned...like I didn't know. Yesterday was a hot one and we travelled to Dalyan and Dalaman and a beach called Calis. So I had my fill of beaches and took to taking pictures of my feet or the umbrella which I might share with you. two things stick out in my mind about yesterday. first that I went for a ride with five guys on the banana (yellow tube thing that they drag behind a boat) and two that I had a plate of four baklava and some fried dough (which really is universal. well i am off to dinner. will catch ya later
love
rtk

so old

Today was better than yesterday which is kinda amazing actually. We did so much that I can't remember all of the details but I can show you some good pictures. First we took the bus on a long journey to the little sea town of Kas which is popular among divers, I walked with an adopted family of mine from the tour around the town. The mother worked there for a few years and remembered some sights...well really one and we looked at it. While we were taking pictures she was shopping for jewelry and got me a necklace as a gift...very nice people. I felt very special. After Kas we went a little sea town of Demre and took a boat to the submerged city of Kekova. It was very cool to see but I couldn't help but think that California could be underwater someday and that is why we recycle...well not in Fetiye but at some posh places in istanbul. Ok then zipped off to Patara for some more beach but this one had waves, it felt like an hour at Catalina. it is funny, the doors open on the bus and we all rush off and into the ocean. We are like cattle and I don't mind right now. Lastly we saw Xanthos which is a village from 6 or 7 bc. Very cool to see and the father of one of my adopted families showed me the plumbing or water drainage to cistens in the old town. anyway the pics will speak for themselves. the one of the water and an object submerged looking like an L is a giant wall...i have no idea from what because I don't speak turkish but it is cool none the less. I have to go to bed, I am exhausted. Love ya